How to Bike to Work
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Coping with Darkness & Weather

You can probably double your potential bicycle commuting days each year if you learn to ride safely and confidently in darkness and less-than-ideal weather. Here's how.

Mudguards and the right clothing can keep you comfortable on a cool, wet day.

Photo: Larry Preble

Riding Safely in Darkness and Dim Light

Riding after dark has roughly ten times the injury risk of riding in daylight. The saving grace is that you can drastically reduce your after-dark crash risk by taking a few simple steps. Low-light periods, including dawn, dusk, and times of fog and precipitation, also pose increased hazards. The following precautions will help you stay safe when riding in poor light conditions.

Never assume that you do not need drivers to see you! Some bicyclists say, "Act as if you were invisible," and use that as justification for failing to use lights and reflectors. This saying wrongly assumes that we can notice and respond correctly to every other road user. We cannot predict everything that happens on the road, and we need the help of other road users to prevent crashes. Riding at night without lights verges on suicidal, regardless of any intention to ride defensively.
Your ability to see does not mean that others can see you! On relatively well-lit urban streets after dark, a bicyclist without lights may be able to see road hazards and motor vehicles while remaining nearly invisible to drivers. Always use a good headlight and taillight when riding in the dark or in dim light.
Your commuting route may pass through well-lit and poorly-lit areas. Prepare for the worst case, not only the most typical situation.
You need a headlight bright enough to illuminate your path in the darkest spots. Your headlight and taillight also need the brightness to get noticed in places with many potentially distracting lights competing for a driver's attention. Ask a friend to watch you ride, with your lights on, in a "visually noisy" area. Do your lights stand out among all the others?
Reflective clothing, vests, leg bands, and arm bands can help drivers distinguish you from other points of light. Reflective clothing and vests help to show your outline and help drivers recognize you as a person on the road. Leg bands bob up and down in a motion immediately recognizable as pedaling. Arm bands help motorists see your hand signals.

Selecting Good Lights

Ask some bicycling friends to gather on a quiet street, path, or parking lot and test each other's lights. This will help you decide how powerful (and expensive) a headlight and taillight to buy. Bicycle headlights range in cost from about $5 to over $500 (really!), with the most powerful lights putting out about 500 times as much light as the least powerful. Well-designed headlights starting at about $40 can serve well for most commuting purposes. For $100 - $200 you can buy a very bright headlight, good for nearly any commuting purpose, with rechargeable batteries and a charger.
If you ride frequently after dark, get a headlight with rechargeable batteries. This will save you many dollars (more than the cost of the headlight) in discarded batteries, and keep many batteries out of the landfill. A light designed to use standard alkaline batteries (1.5 volts each) will work poorly with rechargeable nickel-cadmium (NiCad) or nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) batteries, which operate at 1.2 volts each. Even when the rechargeable batteries are fully charged, they will provide dim light. If you want to use rechargeable batteries, buy a light designed for them.
Different lighting technologies used in bicycle headlights have very different electrical efficiencies. From one watt of electrical power, a standard incandescent flashlight bulb will produce about 6 lumens of light; the brightest halogen bulbs will produce about 17 lumens; a white light-emitting diode (LED) will produce about 40 lumens; and a metal halide high-intensity discharge (HID) lamp will produce about 80 lumens. These types of lamps also have very different typical lifespans: low-efficiency incandescent, 1500 hours; high-efficiency halogen, 150 hours; LED, 10,000 hours; and HID, 1000 hours. Different headlights will emit different shades of "white" light, depending on their design details. Also, they will have different beam patterns, ranging from a tight spot beam to a wide flood beam. Bottom line: You need to see two lights in action to compare how well they will work for you.
Rule of thumb: As a starting point for choosing a commuting headlight, look at LED headlights of 1 watt or more and halogen headlights of 3 watts or more. Depending on reflector and lens design, higher power might give a wider beam pattern rather than higher brightness in the center of the beam. The faster you ride, the farther you need to see. Faster riders need brighter headlights.
Halogen headlights still have the highest bang for the buck. LED headlights are more rugged, can last essentially forever without ever needing to replace a bulb, and are small and light because a smaller battery can power them to similar brightness for the same time on a single charge. HID headlights give the brightest and whitest light, but are very expensive and require complex electronics. (You can't just connect an HID bulb to a battery and get light.) Replacement bulbs are costly.
Mount your headlight as low to the ground as possible. The farther the headlight is below your eye level, the longer shadows it will cast of holes, bumps, rocks, glass, etc. on the road. A headlight mounted near eye level (say, on a helmet) will cast essentially no visible shadow, making it difficult for you to see these hazards. Helmet-mounted lights are good for trail riding, because they allow you to scan the beam by turning your head. If you want this option while commuting, use a helmet-mounted headlight with a second, brighter headlight mounted at or below handlebar level.
The short scoop on taillights: LED taillights operate in both flashing and steady modes. Flashing lights grab a driver's attention and extend battery life. Steady lights make it easier for drivers to estimate their distance from you. Either one makes a huge improvement over using only a reflector. Ideally, mount one taillight firmly on the back of your helmet and one taillight on your seat post or rear rack. Then, you can use one in flashing mode and one in steady mode. Do not mount two steady taillights side by side, where they can confuse a driver by looking like taillights of a motor vehicle much farther away. The same holds true for headlights.
Point your headlight and taillight carefully. The taillight should point straight back. Attaching it to clothing, a backpack, or another soft surface will make it point toward the ground and lose much of its brightness to drivers behind you. Adjust the headlight to illuminate the ground in front of you while also shining on street signs.
If you use disposable (alkaline) batteries, replace them as soon as the light starts to dim. If you use rechargeable batteries, recharge them after each ride, no matter how short. This will extend the batteries' service life. After a period of months or years, they will lose their ability to hold a charge and you will need to replace them.

Riding Safely on Wet or Snowy Roads

Water reduces friction between your tires and the road and also between your brake pads and rims. Both of these effects can make your brakes less powerful and potentially unpredictable. The reduced friction between tires and road also makes it much easier to skid and fall while turning or to skid the rear wheel while attempting to accelerate quickly from a stop.

To brake effectively on wet roads, apply the brakes gently at first to scrub water from the rims. Then, the brakes will grip much better. This technique won't improve the grip of your tires on the road, though.
To cope with this inevitably worse braking, you may need to ride at a slower pace than you can handle in dry conditions. You also will need to pay attention to potential hazards farther away, so you have more time to react to them by braking gently.
If you commute frequently on wet roads, ask your bicycle shop about tires that handle especially well in wet conditions. Some rubber compounds retain more of their grip when wet and some tread patterns work better to channel water away from the surface touching the road. Soft, "grippy" tires tend to have higher rolling resistance and give up some speed and tread life compared with tires optimized for dry roads.
Disc brakes and drum or roller brakes enclosed within the wheel hubs maintain most of their power in spite of rain or snow. A bike equipped with these brakes along with tires that grip well while wet can give braking performance nearly as good in wet weather as in dry weather.
Wet roads at night result in poor visibility of road surface problems. The wet road looks like a mirror in a headlight beam, making holes, cracks, and bumps seem to disappear. Unfortunately, those obstacles remain quite present when you hit them. By riding more slowly on wet roads in the dark, you give yourself more chance to dodge obstacles that appear suddenly. Hitting an obstacle at lower speed also reduces the chance that it might cause you to crash.
In Louisville, snow on the road commonly means a slushy brine of snow and road salt. All of the advice for wet roads applies. Especially while snow is falling or on unplowed roads, snow and ice can accumulate on your brake pads. Take care to apply the brakes gently, repeatedly, to ensure clean rims and brake pads. (Bikes with disc or hub brakes don't have this problem.) After riding on a salted road, you will find your bicycle (and perhaps your face and clothes and eyewear) encrusted in road salt. As soon as the temperature climbs above freezing, rinse your bicycle with fresh water and dry the chain to prevent rust.
On unplowed and unsalted streets, with temperatures below freezing, snow crushed by cars can turn into patches of ice. Without resorting to studded bicycle tires or bicycle tire chains (both of which exist!), riding over ice invites a sudden, hard fall. Black ice has the same ability to toss otherwise skilled bicyclists onto the ground. Icy roads make a good argument for taking the bus or walking to work.

Dressing for Wet Weather

How you dress for wet weather depends on the length of your commute, the temperature, and how hard the rain is falling. A wide range of rain gear, each with its own pros and cons, can work well depending on the conditions.

These tips can help you decide what to wear in the rain.

If you ordinarily change clothes when you get to work, you might choose not to use any rain gear at all on a warm day. You arrive wet and change into your dry clothes at work. Make sure to have a place to hang your wet riding clothes, preferably after wringing water out of them. The no-rain gear method allows you to ride hard without overheating on a hot but wet day.
Bicycling with wet clothes can cause enough wind chill to bring on hypothermia, even in otherwise tolerable temperatures (say, 65º F). Mild hypothermia causes violent shivering, loss of muscle control, and confusion - bad news for safe bicycling. Severe hypothermia can kill. Even if you are already wet and cold, putting on a headband and windbreaker or rain jacket can help you regain normal body temperature and complete your ride safely.
The water resistance of outer garments ranges from water repellent in a light mist to fully waterproof in a deluge. The more waterproof the garment, the hotter it will be. Adjustable ventilation will help make a waterproof jacket or poncho tolerable for riding in warm weather. The harder you ride, the hotter you will feel in rain gear.
A simple, inexpensive rain cape can protect you from downpours. It goes on easily over any type of clothing and offers excellent ventilation. The rain cape won't fully protect you from splashes or wind-blown rain all by itself.
Waterproof garments are offered with various degrees of breathability. Even the most breathable waterproof jacket will make you warmer. If you ride at a pace that causes you to sweat noticeably, you will probably produce sweat faster than the jacket can vent it. Yes, the high-tech jacket is much more breathable than an inexpensive one made of vinyl or urethane-coated nylon, but it will still trap some moisture. On a warm day, riding at a moderate pace wearing any type of waterproof jacket will probably leave you wet from sweating.
Whatever type of fabric you choose, seek rain gear with ventilation adjustable by means of zippers, hook-and-loop closures, or snaps. Zippers will leak unless covered with rain flaps.
Don't expect perfection from your rain gear. In a hard enough rain, any garment will leak.
Maintain your rain gear. Follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding sealing the seams, laundering, and re-applying surface coatings to maintain water repellency.

Protecting Yourself from Cold

Notice: headband, eye protection, vest, warm clothing

Photo: John Paul

Ice notwithstanding, winter can be a great time for bicycle commuting. A regular rhythm of bicycle trips to and from work can provide outdoor exercise during months when we might otherwise gravitate toward the couch. If you prepare well for the weather and respect your limits, a bike ride through chilly air feels invigorating and staves off the winter blues.

Get used to riding in colder weather by continuing to ride through the autumn as temperatures gradually drop. If you stop riding in November and December when temperatures dip below 60º F, you won't want to get back on the bike in January in temperatures of 30º F!
Short exposures to the cold are easier to tolerate than longer exposures. Learn your cold-weather needs and abilities by riding in non-threatening situations in which you can duck into a building to get warm if necessary. Trying for a personal record coldest ride on a long commute to work is probably a bad idea. You don't want to arrive at work just in time to go to the ER with frostbite.
Especially while you get accustomed to riding in the cold, carry extra clothing. Stop and quickly add a layer if you feel too cold. Some lightweight items that add warmth include a windbreaker, headband, synthetic fleece helmet liner, balaclava, neck gaiter, bandana worn over your face or neck, and face mask. The least expensive: a shower cap that you pull over your helmet to cover the air vents.
Fingers and toes get coldest, and often set the limit for the lowest temperature in which we can ride comfortably. Because we lose more heat through the head and neck than through any other parts of the body, follow the old adage, "If your feet (or hands) are cold, cover your head." If your head or torso get cold, it will be impossible to keep your hands and feet warm, because the body restricts circulation to the extremities when necessary to keep heat flowing to the brain and internal organs.
Some riders need gloves for warmth as soon as temperatures drop into the 60s. Others can ride without them in much colder weather. Only you can tell what you need. A light pair of liner gloves along with a loose-fitting pair of heavier gloves will allow you three comfort ranges: wearing liners alone, gloves alone, and liners inside gloves. Test your hands' tolerance to cold on short rides first before attempting a cold-weather commute longer than 15 minutes. Inadequately protected fingers and toes can get painfully cold in just a few minutes.
To keep your feet warm, ride in looser shoes with an extra pair of socks or with thick socks. Wool and some synthetic fibers wick moisture well without absorbing much. This keeps your feet drier and warmer. Tight shoes or shoes jammed tight with too-thick socks will guarantee cold feet. If you wear cycling shoes, another option is a pair of shoe covers available from bicycle shops.
Don't wear scarves or other clothing that can dangle into the wheels of your bicycle!
A pair of wrap-around cycling glasses or goggles can make winter riding more comfortable by keeping cold, dry wind out of your eyes. Snow on the ground can create an extremely bright environment that calls for dark lenses. Many models of cycling-specific eyewear come with variable-tint lenses or two or three lenses of different colors for different lighting conditions. Make sure you carry lenses suitable for all of your riding that day - for example, a ride to work in pre-dawn darkness and a ride home in afternoon daylight.

Dressing for Hot Weather

"Hazy, hot, and humid..." We hear that phrase a lot in summer weather forecasts in Louisville. When the weather gets hot enough to make you sweat during an unhurried walk, expect to sweat more when you ride. Check out the Clothing section for general information on dealing with sweat and attire for warm weather. Here, we will look into beating the heat when commuting in flat-out hot weather.

Sweating is the body's method of cooling. To cool effectively, your body needs enough fluid (hydration) and skin exposed to moving air. Skin covered with light, airy clothing will often stay cooler than skin exposed to sunlight.
Don't wait until you feel thirsty before you drink. Drink water or another non-alcoholic beverage before and after your ride, and drink water during a hot ride over 20 minutes long. Sweating without drinking enough will disrupt your body's electrolyte balance and push you toward heat exhaustion.
Don't drink undiluted fruit juice, soda, or other sweet beverages to rehydrate. Your stomach can absorb slightly sweet beverages faster than it absorbs plain water, but will balk at very sweet beverages. Carry plain water on your bicycle.
If the combination of hot weather and physical activity drives your body temperature above 100º F, you can suffer from heat exhaustion. At a body temperature of 103º F, you may face life-threatening heat stroke. (CDC Extreme Heat FAQ) You don't want to go there. If you ever feel a chill when riding in hot weather, stop, get in the shade or into an air conditioned building, and drink plenty of plain water. Other symptoms of heat exhaustion include sudden weakness, dizziness, nausea, muscle cramps, and headache.
Ride at a slower pace and coast more in hot weather. Less exertion means that your body will produce less heat. Coasting allows sweat to evaporate and cool you while you are resting. It also feels good!
Unless you work in a sweat-tolerant workplace (say, a construction site), expect to need to wash up and change clothes after a ride to work in hot weather. Summer-weight bicycling or running clothing can help keep you comfortable during the ride. See Clothing and Grooming for suggestions for managing clothes and bathing at work.
When riding in hot weather, carrying a purse, backpack, courier bag, etc. on your body will make you hotter by blocking air flow. The bag may also get sweaty.

Note: All of the above tips are for commuting trips taking less than an hour. If you plan to take hot-weather rides longer than an hour, you need to consider issues that we have not covered here. The US Public Health Service provides some good advice.

How to Bike to Work
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